Oversized, tailored, with explosions of volume, texture and drama, with her new collection Constanzia Yurashko has really made a statement about statement pieces.

That statement is that not all statements need to be screaming and bright, that there is power in line and contrast. The Moldovian designer delivered a masterclass in construction in her collection shown during London Fashion Week that will be long remembered.

The nods back to the 1920s and 1930s were placed alongside pieces that could almost have been operatic in their sense of theatre, we pushed between a pared-back swallowing austerity of feature and the counter-revolution of the ruffle, scrunch and bunch.

There were other notes, everything in this collection is about the secondary look, the detail, the addition of something the eye might not have caught in passing. That is very, very clever, it adds a layer of intrigue, while some of the looks might have conjured forth a sense of The Untouchables and Chicago, we were called on to be fashion detectives picking out the flashes of brilliance that may have gone unnoticed in a witness report.

I’m very much taken with this unisex collection and it’s one I’ll be returning to with regularity during the spring and summer of 2020.

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